Don't Waste Seafood Roe: Transform Them Into a Gourmet Spread – Method
Beyond the impressive shores and rugged coastline, this island has a extraordinary food culture, deeply grounded in both soil and sea. Starting with internationally renowned local baby potatoes to scallops more succulent and more tender than those found anywhere else, Jersey's bounty is unmatched. The thing that excites many most, however, is how island producers and growers are embracing regenerative farming, while thereby reimagining their culinary destiny with innovation and dedication.
A few weeks ago, I had the privilege to lead a discussion at a gathering, and cook a welcoming meal for all participants, alongside an inspiring founder. Of course, the shellfish had to be on the spread, since they're the island at their finest: delicate, plump and bursting of the ocean.
These mollusks seem to me the ultimate embodiment of the island's culinary evolution: sweet, plump and regenerative by nature, purifying and refreshing the water while helping to build coastal habitats. Whether cultivated and, crucially, diver-caught, they're one of the most sustainable proteins we can eat. However many, those were raised on the island, don't eat their eggs – a common affliction, I fear. All the more justification to champion those coral-pink tidbits, which are much too delicious to discard. Whipped into a spread, they become pure luxury: drizzle over scallops, mix into risotto or simply spread on toasted bread.
They can be a little expensive, however, so I have devised the following method to transform a single scallop into a stunning starter (or a few into a satisfying main course) and, by whipping their roe into smoky paprika butter and roasting the scallops in the half-shells with small tomatoes and garlic, potential waste becomes a luxury.
That same spirit of reinvention is at the heart of the movement, that introduced an award offering funding to food pioneers with backing, guidance and access to a marketplace. Judged by a panel of respected culinary experts, the award will be presented during an forthcoming conference. This is focused on backing ideas that can assist our agricultural networks thrive, across the board, and there's no better a more exciting location for that conversation to start than here.
Shellfish Roasted in Roe Butter with Cherry Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Serves 6 as a appetizer or two as a main course
Six roe-on shellfish in the half-shell
Eighteen small tomatoes, halved
6 garlic cloves, crushed
3 whole chili peppers (eg jalapeno), halved lengthwise, or 1 pinch red pepper flakes, or to taste (if desired)
50 grams butter
1 tsp smoked or sweet paprika
Salt and pepper, to taste
Lemon wedges, to accompany
A little sea asparagus, saltwort or 6 tiny pickle slices, to decorate (if using)
Clean the scallops, removing the eggs from every and leaving the rest of the shellfish fixed to the half-shell (ask your seafood supplier to do this for you, if need be). Place six halved tomatoes in every half-shell with a clove's worth of crushed garlic cloves and half a red chilli, if using.
Put the scallop roes in the jug of an immersion blender (many prefer it's the most effective method for mixing small amounts), add the spread and spice, and blend smooth. Divide the butter between the half-shells, ensuring every shellfish is well covered in the spread.
Preheat the broiler until it is very hot, then put the shellfish beneath the flame for 6-8 minutes, until blistered and sizzling. Present right away, topped with if desired samphire, agretti, a piece of pickle and/or a drizzle of the gherkin brine or a bit of lemon juice.