The Christmas Tree Illuminates for the First Time Since the Outbreak of the Conflict

For two years during the Gaza war, all public celebrations for Christmas were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem located in the West Bank. This city is believed to be where the faithful hold Jesus was born.

But, after a recent truce, the holy city decided that now the festivities would return, as symbolised by the lighting of its customary, large holiday tree in front of the historic Nativity Church.

"We have endured a bad two years without celebration; no Christmas, no employment, no work," remarks Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives on tourism and tourism was down to nothing."

The mayor accepts that the idea of resuming celebrations was not without controversy, as suffering continues in Gaza – including for members of the small Christian population, who often have relatives to Bethlehem.

"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate and others say it is fitting," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I felt this constituted the right thing to take since the Christmas season should never be halted or abandoned. This represents the light of hope for us."

A Glimmer of Celebration Returns

Locals – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – pose for selfies before the tree decorated with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of foreign tourists.

Vibrant lights now decorate the streets and there are signs advertising holiday markets and festive events for children.

"We are delighted to have the tree, first of all, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," comments Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This is where everything began, therefore here is where we can convey the message globally of what really Christmas represents. And this year, if the season is calm, I sincerely hope it will bring a positive message for the whole world."

Economic Hopes and Challenges

The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to light Christmas trees soon. Local hotels – which have remained mostly vacant for two years – are seeing a rise in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with certain international tourists.

A visitor from Russia, named Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think every person should visit at minimum one time in their life," she says.

"I hope many visitors will soon come back because it's sad without many tourists. The sole aspect that's good is you don't have long lines – one can visit and see more things. On my prior visit you had to wait in line for a few hours at least."

For now, the souvenir stores dotted around the city experience scant trade, and outside the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the Fourth Century, guides largely stand idle. Prior to the Gaza war, it was typically packed with visitors.

"This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no livelihood," expresses a guide named Hamza. "We hope to have people returning as in the past: from European nations, the Middle Eastern region, the Americas, Latin America and everywhere. We begin with lighting the tree, and we'll wait."

The Persistent Economic Impact

In the past two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Since the deadly attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel during October 2023 that sparked the conflict, tens of thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and Israeli settlements for work.

At the same time, public servants have been paid just a portion of their salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers areas within the West Bank. The PA relies on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is currently holding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, according to a UN agency.

Israel says it is holding the funds because the Authority provides payments to incarcerated Palestinians that incentivise attacks on Israelis. The authority – which has been under international pressure to enact reforms – says it has lately modified its welfare system.

A Modest Holiday

The grim economic situation implies that for numerous Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public events in addition to religious services, it will be a subdued holiday season.

At the edge of the square, a few customers wait to buy sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.

"We're preparing for Christmas after one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as Christians," states one restaurant owner, who runs Afteem, a decades-old family restaurant that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He notes lately numerous families could not even purchase falafel – a cheap, traditional snack.

"The faithful will attempt to celebrate but according to their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festive event or the theatre or whatever, he doesn't have the funds to expend for this celebration."

Prayers for Calm and Recovery

In the cave-like grotto at the base of the Nativity Church, a local woman accompanies a small Indian tour group, bending down near a silver star that indicates the location where tradition states Jesus was born and lighting a light close by.

With tensions still high throughout the area, people in Bethlehem say they are hoping for tranquility – and hoping for visitors to return to the location which is thought to be Christmas began.

Scott Baldwin
Scott Baldwin

An avid mountaineer and outdoor enthusiast with over a decade of experience in adventure travel and gear testing.